How to soundproof a wall
- I can hear my neighbours TV through the wall what is my best option, I don’t have much space too loose?
- How to block higher levels of sound through a wall, or walls for a recording studio?
- My wall has a chimney breast do I need to soundproof the chimney?
- I have read about flanking noise how do I stop it?
The thin direct to wall panel solutions are great for blocking this type of sound through a party wall.
The Noisestop Panel, Noisestop 2 and the Noisestop 2+ boards can all be used as stand alone products without the need for additional materials. These panels will help to reduce most types of domestic noise such as TV, conversation and other general household noise complaints.
Using these panels as a thin option to soundproof your walls will give good levels of soundproofing whist only loosing up to a maximum of 50mm of space loss to the room.
In most cases the best levels of soundproofing are achieved when you are able to build a false wall. These are often independent structures that combine different materials that will block and absorb sound as it transfers between rooms.
Noisestop Systems offer a variety of options including party wall and stud wall solutions. You can mix and match alternative products to suit your budget and individual requirements. Our most popular false wall solution is Wall System 1; a thinner alternative would be Wall System 2.
Party walls are the most soundproofed walls in a house, and a lot of these walls have a chimney breast. After many years on advising on this issue I can confirm that the alcoves are always the weakest point of the wall and therefore the alcoves are the area that you should soundproof.
In most front rooms or bedrooms people have either a TV or a music centre placed neatly inside the alcove, this means that the sound source is very close to the wall you share with your neighbour. When you are soundproofing your wall soundproof the alcove areas.
Flanking is the term given to the passage of sound as it goes under or over a wall typically through cavities such as floor and ceiling joists. If you want to increase the effectiveness of your wall soundproofing you should consider insulating the two areas above and below the wall.
If you place acoustic insulation between the joists up against the wall, completely fill the void if possible. You should only need to come back into the room about 600mm. This will help reduce the potential for sound to travel over or under your wall.
How to soundproof a floor
- What is the difference between soundproofing a floor for airborne noise and impact noise?
- Does it matter if I am using carpet or a hard floor surface as my final floor finish?
- What can I use to soundproof my floor to meet Part E Regulations?
- What is the best way to soundproof a floor without removing my floorboards?
Airborne and impact noise travels through the floors in different ways. Impact noise is generated when the floor is struck i.e. by a foot. The sound transmits through the floor structure and is then heard in the room below.
Airborne noise i.e. music or conversation will pass between floor cavities such as the cavity between wooden joists. In order to resolve impact noise you should look at laying a product over the floor to absorb the impact at the source. Airborne noise can be treated with acoustic insulation between the joists or with high density matting laid over the floor.
Knowing what the floor finish is going to be is very important. Our two most popular floor soundproofing underlays are for use with carpet or hard floor finishes. The Noisestop F7 is used below carpets, and the Noisestop F7+ is used below hard floor finishes.
In order to comply with Part E for floors you will need to ensure your floor is protected for impact and airborne noise. The best way to ensure you do this is by using acoustic insulation between floor joists and one of the floor soundproofing mats or one of the floating floors from the Noisedeck range.
Like a lot of people removing floorboards can seem extreme. If you are trying to reduce impact sound products that go on top of the floor are usually adequate. Impact sound is best reduced with products that are laid over the top of the floorboards.
If you are trying to stop airborne sound you will have to use high mass products like the Noisestop F7 or the Barrier Shield product.
How to Soundproof Ceilings
- How can I soundproof a ceiling in my flat without losing to much height in the room?
- If I don’t want to remove the existing ceiling what are my options?
- What do I need for a separating ceiling for Part E Building Regulations?
If you can not afford to lose ceiling height you will have to use the existing ceiling structure. For the best results you will need to remove the plasterboard and insulate between the joists, we recommend the DFM 100mm/80kg acoustic slab.
The next stage is to fix Soundbreaker bars to the joists; this will help to reduce sound transmission through the ceiling structure. To finish the ceiling you should use one of our acoustic panel ranges, The Noisestop 1+ or the Noisestop Panel.
You should consider a second layer of 12.5mm acoustic plasterboard if you need to meet fire regulation requirements.
In this case you have two options.
Option 1 would be to overboard the existing ceiling using one of our acoustic panel range. This type of soundproofing will help reduce airborne noise but will not offer much impact noise reduction.
Option 2 would be to install an independent ceiling. This option would offer very good levels of sound insulation for both airborne and impact noise.
The required build up for a ceiling to meet the Part E requirements includes acoustic insulation, soundbreaker bars and two layers of plasterboard. The acoustic insulation is fitted between the ceiling joists; the minimum requirement is 100mm/45kg/m³.
Soundbreaker bars are fitted to the joists and two layers of acoustic plasterboard are then attached to the bars. Ensure that acoustic sealant is used to seal the edges. This specification will also meet current one hour fire standards.