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Fitting Noisestop 1+ Panels

Fitting Noisestop 1+ Panels

Fitting Noisestop 1+ panels

Guide to fitting Noisestop 1+ panels to walls and ceilings, how to correctly install soundproofing panels.

Stud Wall Kit


  • Tools required: Tape measure, straight edge, Stanley knife, hand saw
  • Fixings: If you fix stud or ceiling joists, you will need drywall or universal screws. Fit on to party walls with screws and plugs or bond directly to walls with Smart Tack adhesive
  • AC50 acoustic sealant for the edges of the boards.

Before you begin fitting the panels

Always check the surface you will apply the boards to and ensure there are no holes, cracks or blown plaster. The surface you are applying to the boards should be in good condition. Fill and repair any obvious areas before you start.

Before the installation, all decorative features and electrical points should be removed. Once the work is completed, these should be reinstated.

Installing the panels with screws

The Noisestop 1+ Panels can be fitted directly onto brick walls using screws and plugs. Use nine Hammer fixings in total.

Fitting panels onto a stud frame, ceiling joist or soundbreaker bars – If you fix the panels onto this type of construction, you can use drywall screws or universal screws.

There is no need to pre-drill the panels with this type of fitting method. You should screw straight through the board into the framework behind the board. Fix into soundbreaker bars through the wide corrugated section of the bar with screws.

When you screw the panels into the stud frame or bar, try not to over tighten them. The head of the screw should be flush with the surface of the plasterboard face. This will reduce the chance of the fixings ‘popping’; the screw goes too deep and does not hold the panel properly, causing movement along the edge of the panels.

Cutting soundproof panels

You will need to cut the boards to fit the shape of your room. You can use a Stanley knife, hand saw, jigsaw or circular saw when you cut the boards.

Measure the size of the cut and then mark the board; you should only have to cut the panels that adjoin a return wall or the ceiling. If you leave a small gap, approximately 2-3mm, around the perimeter, you should use acoustic sealant to fill around the perimeter and between each panel.

Use acoustic sealant along the edges of the boards

As you fit the panels, you should butt them together as close as you can. Leave a small 2-3mm gap around the perimeter of the wall.

As you fit the panels, you should run a bead of sealant along the edge of the first panel. Push the next board up to the first and then repeat the process, applying a small bead of acoustic sealant between each panel as you install them.

Always wipe away excess sealant from the panels once it’s been applied.

Reinstating electrical points

Reinstate electrical outlets such as sockets can once the wall has been completed.

The electrical cable might have to be extended, depending on the depth of soundproofing you are fitting.

Cabling can be passed through the panels, cut or drill a small hole to allow the cable to pass through the board. If you fit plug outlets, you should consider surface mounting the back boxes. For recessed back boxes, use the acoustic putty pads to ensure the integrity of the soundproofing is not lost.

Finishing off

Once you have installed all the panels, you can now finish the installation. All soundproof boards in the Noisestop range have an acoustic plasterboard face with a tapered edge. This allows you to finish the installation in several different ways. The two main finishing methods are to either plaster the panels or tape and fill the tapered edge. From an acoustic point of view, you can use either method; it will not make a difference to the level of soundproofing. Replace skirting and coving if required and decorate.


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