Fitting Noisestop Silent Panels
What tools do I need?
· Tools required: Tape measure, straight edge, Stanley knife, hand saw.
· Fixings: If you are fixing on to stud or ceiling joists, you will need drywall or universal screws. Fit on to party walls with screws and plugs or bond directly to walls with Smart Tack adhesive. AC50 acoustic sealant for the edges of the boards.
Before you begin fitting the panels
Always check the surface you are applying the boards, ensure there are no holes, cracks or blown plaster. The wall you are using the panels should be in good condition. Fill and repair any defects before you start. You should remove all decorative features and electrical points before the installation. Reinstate electrical outlets once the work is complete.
Fitting panels onto brick walls – The panels are fitted directly onto brick walls using screws and plugs. You will need nine hammer fixings in total.
Fitting panels onto a stud frame, ceiling joist or soundbreaker bars – If you fix the panels onto this type of construction, you can use drywall screws or universal screws.
There is no need to pre-drill the panels with this type of fitting method. You should screw straight through the board into the framework behind the board. If you are fixing into soundbreaker bars, fix the panels into the wide corrugated section of the bar. When you screw the panels into the stud frame or bar, try not to over tighten them. The head of the screw should be flush with the surface of the plasterboard face, this will reduce the chance of the fixings ‘popping’, when the screw goes too deep and does not hold the panel properly, causing movement along the edge of the panels.
Cutting Noisestop Silent Panels
You will need to cut the boards to fit the shape of your room. You can use a Stanley knife, hand saw, jigsaw or circular saw when you cut the boards. Measure the size of the cut and then mark the board; you should only have to cut the panels that adjoin a return wall or the ceiling. If you leave a small gap, approximately 3-5mm, use acoustic around the perimeter.
Use acoustic sealant along the edges of the boards
As you fit the panels, you should butt them together as close as you can. A small 3-5mm gap can be left around the perimeter. As you fit the panels, you should run a bead of acoustic sealant along the edge of the first panel. Push the next panel up to the first and then repeat the process, applying a small bead of sealant between each board as you install them. At the end of the installation, you should check the edge of each board to ensure they are completely sealed. Apply extra sealant to any areas that have not been filled with the acoustic sealant. Always wipe away excess sealant from the panels once it’s been applied.
Reinstating electrical points
During and after the installation of the panels, you will have to consider reinstating electrical points. You can fit sockets and lighting points after the panels have been installed. The electrical cable might have to be extended, depending on the depth of soundproofing you are fitting. Cabling can be passed through the panels, cut or drill a small hole to allow the cable to be passed through the board. If you fit electrical outlets, you should consider using acoustic putty pads inside the back boxes. Seal any holes with acoustic sealant at the end of the installation.
Once you have installed all the panels, you can now finish the installation. All soundproof boards in the Noisestop range have an acoustic plasterboard face with a tapered edge, allowing you to complete the installation in several different ways. The two main methods of finishing the boards are to plaster the panels or tape and fill the tapered edge. From an acoustic point of view, you can use either way; it will not make a difference to the level of soundproofing.
Replace skirting and coving if required and decorate.