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Installing Wall System 1

Installing Wall System 1

Guide to installing Wall System 1

wall system 1

Installing Wall System 1 provides soundproofing for domestic party walls and forms an acoustic wall to be used as an internal lining to improve the sound insulation of existing walls.

Installing Wall System 1

Wall System 1 is installed onto a stud frame. The framework can be a timber metal frame. Try to avoid mechanical fixing into the party wall. You will reduce the chance of sound transfer through the wall if you don’t fit into the existing wall. The new stud wall should be fixed in place by attaching the foot of the stud to the floor and the header to the ceiling. The sides of the new wall should be fastened to the return walls.

It is important to ensure the depth of the stud frame is equal too, or deeper than the thickness of the acoustic insulation. Acoustic insulation slabs will not compress. If you try to compress the slabs too much, the plasterboard will eventually move and crack along the edges of the boards.

NOTE: Leave a small gap if possible of at least 10mm between the existing wall and the new stud frame; this will further reduce sound transfer between the two walls.

 Once the stud work has been installed, you can move on to installing your soundproofing system.

Wall preparation

Before installing the new acoustic wall, you should remove all wall decorations, skirting boards, coving and picture rails. Electrical outlets should be removed before any work, extend the electrical cable as required to reinstate once the work is complete. All decorative features that have been removed can be reinstated once the wall is finished.

Step 1.

Insulating the stud frame

The new stud frames should be filled with DFM acoustic insulation. The stud frame should be filled with no gaps between the insulation and the stud work.

Acoustic insulation can be cut with a hand saw or an old bread knife. Measure the opening between the studs and cut the insulation approximately 5mm wider. Cutting the slabs wider than the opening will mean the slabs will friction fit between the studs. You shouldn’t need to use fixing to hold the slabs in place; if necessary, a screw or nail can be fastened into the side of the stud to hold the insulation in place.

Step 2.

Fixing Soundbreaker bars

The wall is filled with acoustic insulation, and you are ready to fix the soundbreaker bars to the stud frame. The bars are fixed to the stud frame running at right angles to the studs.

NOTE: The bars must be fixed the right way up. The bars have a pre-drilled edge with lots of holes running along the full length of the bar. This section should always be at the bottom of the bar. The wider corrugated part of the bar should be facing into the room.

Screw the bars straight into the stud frame using the pre-drilled holes as the pilot hole. Fasten the first bar 50mm from the floor up the wall. Fix the bars into each stud along the full length of the bar. The bars are 3m long; if your wall is longer than 3m, you should overlap the bars to extend the length of your wall. The rest of the bars should be spaced out to ensure you have a bar every 600mm. Measure from the floor and fix a bar, in the same way, all the way up the wall. Ensure you have enough bars to fix a bar at the top of the wall. When you have finished, you should be left with three points to fasten the boarding into the next installation step.

Step 3.

Fitting the soundproof panels

The soundproof panels are fastened to the soundbreaker bars using drywall or universal screws. You can not nail into the bars. You will not need to drill the panels before you attach them. Screw straight through the panel into the wide corrugated flange of the bar. You should be able to use 15 screws per full-size panel 1200mm x 1200mm. Fasten into the three bars behind the boards with 5 screws per bar. Do not over tighten the screws. They should be flush or just below the surface of the plasterboard face.

NOTE: the panels are fitted with the blue face of the acoustic plasterboard facing into the room. The mass-loaded barrier mat on the back of the board faces into the wall.

 When you reach the edges of the wall, you will need to cut the soundproof boards. All Noisestop soundproof panels can be cut with a Stanley knife or hand saw. If you have power tools, they can be cut with circular saws or a jigsaw.

It is important to ensure that every edge of the panels is well fitted and sealed. Do not leave gaps between the boards; ensure they are butted up together. Use AC50 acoustic sealant along the edges of each panel as you install them. Once you’ve fitted the first board, run a bead of sealant along the edge and then push the next panel up to the board. This will guarantee each panel has been sealed along the edge with acoustic sealant. Once you have fitted all the boards, you can go round the wall making sure any gaps have been filled with the acoustic sealant.

Step 4.

Finishing you wall

Because all the soundproof panels in the Noisestop range are manufactured with a 12.5mm acoustic plasterboard with tapered edges, you can choose to finish the panels in two different ways. Because these panels are plasterboard, you can plaster skim straight onto the face of the panels using multi skim thin coat plaster. Alternatively, the tapered edge along two edges of the panel can be taped, filled and sanded.

Reinstate your wall furniture as necessary. Electrical points can be fitted back into the wall. To avoid cutting out sections of the wall, we would recommend surface mounted sockets. Always ensure that any areas that have been removed are sealed with acoustic sealant.

For enquiries, please call 01423 339163, or send us a message via our contacts page.

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